Kris Hampton and Paul Corsaro from Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning discuss the research and studies that may or may not be applicable to the climbing world.
📻 Siste episoder av Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing
Her er de nyeste episodene tilgjengelige via RSS-feeden:
Laster episoder...
📱 Slik abonnerer du på Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing
INTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents (00:08:11)
Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound designed stories about what led to...
Can Beta-Alanine Supplementation Help You Send Your Sport Climbing Project? (00:31:09)
In the final episode of Season 2, Kris and Paul discuss beta-alanine, a nutritional supplement, and its impact on climbing performance as investigated in:
Beta-Alanine Supplementation and Sport Clim...
Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing? (00:52:31)
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the difference between systematic and critical reviews, while examining what science says about warming up for sport in three reviews:
Current Approaches on Wa...
Are Chalking Up and Shaking Out Actually Helpful or Persistent Myths? (00:50:20)
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the dangers of reading only the abstracts of research papers, by taking a look at what science says about chalking up and shaking out. They’ll reference multiple...
What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers? (00:52:46)
In this episode, Kris and Paul chat with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson, to examine a study that attempts to collect and compare data from female climbers:
Anthropometry and ...
Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing? (00:56:07)
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that explores how our attention - and where we focus it - can impact our performance:
Links between Attention, Performance Pressure, and Movement in Skil...
Do Our Abilities Alter How We Perceive Hold or Move Size? (00:52:55)
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that looks at the relationship between an athlete’s skill level and how they perceive their environment:
Embodied perception in sport
Authored by Rob Gra...
Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing? (00:53:16)
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that investigates how different energy systems contribute to climbing performance:
Climbing-Specific Exercise Tests: Energy System Contributions and Rela...
Can We Accurately Assess the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers? (00:44:18)
In this episode, Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in climbing:
Climbing performance analysis: A novel tool for the assessment of rock ...
Does Strength Training Help Prevent Shoulder Injuries in Climbers? (00:38:06)
In this episode, Kris and Paul take a look at three papers dealing with the shoulder health of climbers:
Application of closed kinematic chain exercises with eccentric and strength exercises for the s...
Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best? (00:49:58)
In the Season 2 premiere, Kris and Paul take a look at two papers that deal with measuring isometric finger strength in climbers:
The reliability and validity of a method for the assessment of sport r...
Better Call Paul | International Rock Climbing Research Association Test Battery (00:47:55)
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that introduces and assesses a battery of ten tests designed specifically to measure climbing p...
Better Call Paul ADDENDUM | The Male / Female Performance Gap in Climbing (00:25:19)
For a few weeks after recording the episode on the IRCRA postion statement, some of my comments didn't sit quite right with me. They weren't false, but they weren't the whole story. In this addendum e...
Better Call Paul | How Should Climbing Research Be Standardized? (00:47:35)
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a position statement paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that seeks to bring uniformity to how rock climbing research is collected an...
Better Call Paul | How Do We Choose and Read Research Papers? (00:48:30)
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the process they use to choose and read research papers, both for Breaking Beta and for their own interests as climbers and coaches.
*Additional studies/resour...
Better Call Paul | Are Your Statistics Even Significant, Bro? (00:51:58)
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss statistics and their significance with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson. He explains his views on statistical models, p-values, and more...
Better Call Paul | What Did We Learn From Season 1? (00:51:21)
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss what they learned from Season 1. They break down the specifics — from finger strength to injury prevention, flexibility to nutrition — that they’ll be incorpora...
Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance? (00:35:34)
In this episode, Kris and Paul bring things full circle, ending the season with another hangboard study from Eva Lopez:
Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Pro...
Is Creatine Useful for Climbers? (00:49:37)
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss two papers that try to clear up the rumors surrounding one of the most popular supplements in sports nutrition:
International Society of Sports Nutrition Positio...
Sport Climbers vs. Boulderers: Who is Stronger? (00:40:34)
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a study that dares to touch THE ultimate strength debate climbers love to argue about:
Comparison of Climbing-Specific Strength and Endurance Between Lead and Bo...
Does Hangboard Training Increase Pinch Strength? (00:32:09)
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss another study seeking to determine if there’s really a best way to train on a hangboard:
Hangboard Training in Advanced Climbers: A Randomized Controlled Trial
a...
Can We Minimize Tendon Injury and Return More Quickly to Climbing? (00:47:01)
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss another study examining a type of injury commonly seen in climbers:
Minimizing Injury and Maximizing Return to Play: Lessons from Engineered Ligaments
authored b...
How Does 30 Years of Climbing Affect Our Shoulders? (00:35:38)
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a topic that every climber has to consider during their career - shoulder health - as examined in the study:
Impact of 30 Years High-Level Rock Climbing on the S...
Is Flexibility a Good Metric for Climbers? (00:37:09)
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a study that might finally reveal why there are so many former gymnasts who can crush:
Flexibility Assessment and the Role of Flexibility as a Determinant of Per...
Does Stretching Result in Power Loss? (00:45:10)
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a hotly-debated topic - not just in the climbing world but the greater athletic community:
Acute Effects of Static Stretching on Muscle Strength and Power: An At...
Side 1 av 1
Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing - Gratis RSS Feed for Norsk Podcast | OpenPodMe | OpenPodMe - Åpen RSS for Norske Podcaster
